Sandalwood Oil Benefits: The Acne Study Had No Control

What research shows about sandalwood oil benefits for skin, hair, sleep and anxiety, which studies were small or company-funded, and how to avoid allergic reactions.

Sandalwood oil is an essential oil distilled from the wood of the Santalum album tree, also called East Indian sandalwood. It is used in perfumes, cosmetics and traditional medicine, and East Indian sandalwood is listed by the US Food and Drug Administration as a natural flavoring substance (1, 2).

Laboratory studies show anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity, and clinical research on skin conditions has begun (2). However, many studies were small, uncontrolled or run by the company developing pharmaceutical sandalwood oil. This guide explains what the evidence actually shows.

Key Takeaways

  • Early clinical studies suggest sandalwood oil may help acne, eczema and psoriasis, but most were small, uncontrolled and linked to the oil’s developer (2, 3, 4, 5).
  • The hair growth research used a synthetic sandalwood odorant on hair follicles in a lab, not sandalwood oil in people (8).
  • Sleep benefits have been shown only in rats (9).
  • A lavender-sandalwood aromatherapy blend reduced anxiety during breast biopsy in a randomized trial (13).
  • Sandalwood oil is a known contact allergen; about 1.5% of patients patch tested in Germany reacted to it (6).

What Is Sandalwood Oil?

East Indian sandalwood oil is distilled from Santalum album and contains alpha-santalol and beta-santalol as its main active compounds (2). It has shown anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-proliferative activity in laboratory research (2). In a review of Ayurvedic skin-lightening herbs, sandalwood was among plants reported to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production (15). Alpha-santalol has also shown anticancer effects in cell and mouse studies, which have not been tested in people (16).

Sandalwood Oil Benefits at a Glance

ClaimBest evidenceLimitations
Acne8-week open-label study, 47 people, sandalwood oil plus salicylic acid (3)No control group; combined product; company co-author
Eczema and psoriasisSmall clinical reports and lab skin models (4, 5)Interim or uncontrolled data from the oil’s developer
Hair growthLab study of human hair follicles (8)Synthetic sandalwood odorant, not sandalwood oil; no human trials
SleepRat study of santalol (9)Not tested in people
AnxietyRandomized trial with a lavender-sandalwood blend (13)Blend, not sandalwood alone; one small trial
RelaxationSmall studies in healthy volunteers (10, 12)Mixed: inhaling the oil raised pulse and blood pressure in one study

Sandalwood Oil for Acne, Eczema and Psoriasis

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A 2017 review described clinical studies of sandalwood album oil for acne, psoriasis, eczema, common warts and molluscum contagiosum. One of its two authors works for Santalis Pharmaceuticals, which holds investigational drug applications for sandalwood oil (2).

  • Acne: in an 8-week open-label study, 42 of 47 adolescents and adults with mild to moderate acne (89%) were rated as improved using a proprietary regimen of cleanser, serum, spot treatment and mask combining sandalwood oil with 0.5% salicylic acid. Side effects peaked at week 2 and were mostly mild to moderate, typically with the mask (3). Without a control group, the effect of sandalwood itself cannot be separated from salicylic acid.
  • Eczema: researchers reported that 75% of children with eczema treated with topical sandalwood oil formulations had their eczema severity score cut by more than half, alongside lab evidence that the oil blocks inflammatory enzymes (4).
  • Psoriasis: interim results from a phase 2 trial suggested topical sandalwood oil was well tolerated and helped mild to moderate psoriasis, and the oil reversed psoriasis-like changes in lab skin models (5).

Both the eczema and psoriasis reports included authors from Santalis Pharmaceuticals (4, 5). Pharmaceutical-grade oils used in these studies may differ from sandalwood oils sold for aromatherapy. For everyday dry skin, see our guide to moisturizing dry skin.

Can Sandalwood Oil Help Hair Grow?

A 2018 study found that human hair follicles contain an olfactory receptor called OR2AT4. When researchers stimulated it with Sandalore, a synthetic sandalwood odorant, hair follicles kept alive in the lab stayed in their growth phase longer (8). Several authors worked for a hair research laboratory, and one consults for a company that has patented OR2AT4-targeting compounds for hair growth (8).

This study did not use sandalwood essential oil and did not test hair growth in people. There is currently no clinical evidence that sandalwood oil treats hair loss. For approaches with more evidence, see our guide to home remedies for hair fall.

Sleep, Anxiety and Stress

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  • Sleep: in sleep-disturbed rats, inhaling santalol reduced total waking time and increased non-REM sleep. The effect remained when the rats’ sense of smell was impaired, suggesting santalol was absorbed through the airways (9). There are no sleep trials in people.
  • Anxiety during breast biopsy: in a randomized trial of 87 women, a lavender-sandalwood aromatherapy tab reduced self-reported anxiety compared with placebo (13). The blend makes it impossible to credit sandalwood alone.
  • Palliative care: a pilot trial of 34 patients was too small to produce reliable statistics (14).
  • Stress response: in 32 people exposed to experimental stress, inhaling sandalwood oils lowered systolic blood pressure during recovery (12).
  • Mixed results: in other small studies of healthy volunteers, inhaling sandalwood oil raised pulse rate and systolic blood pressure compared with placebo (10), and sandalwood oil absorbed through the skin caused physiological calming but more mental alertness (11).

Overall, sandalwood aroma may be pleasant and relaxing for some people, but it is not a proven treatment for insomnia or anxiety.

Safety and Allergy

  • Contact allergy: sandalwood oil is among the essential oils that most often cause contact allergy. In patch tests of patients at German dermatology clinics from 2000 to 2008, about 1.5% reacted to sandalwood oil (6). Dermatologists list it among frequently sensitizing fragrance materials (7).
  • Dilute and patch test: apply a diluted amount to a small area of skin and wait before using it more widely. Stop using it if redness, itching or swelling develops.
  • Do not swallow essential oil: although East Indian sandalwood is permitted as a food flavoring (1), concentrated essential oils are not meant to be taken by mouth. Keep them away from children.
  • Pregnancy and medical conditions: ask your doctor before using sandalwood oil if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or being treated for a skin condition.

Other fragrant ingredients can also cause skin reactions; see our articles on vanilla and camphor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does sandalwood oil help with acne?
Evidence is limited. In an 8-week open-label study of 47 teens and adults with mild to moderate acne, 89% improved using a product line that combined sandalwood oil with 0.5% salicylic acid. The study had no control group and a co-author worked for the company developing the oil, so the effect of sandalwood alone is unclear.

Can sandalwood oil help hair grow?
There are no human trials. A lab study found that Sandalore, a synthetic sandalwood odorant, prolonged the growth phase of human hair follicles kept alive outside the body by activating a receptor called OR2AT4. That compound is not the same as sandalwood essential oil.

Does sandalwood oil help you sleep?
In sleep-disturbed rats, inhaled santalol, the main compound in sandalwood oil, reduced waking time and increased non-REM sleep. This has not been tested in people, so sandalwood oil is not a proven sleep aid.

Can sandalwood oil cause an allergic reaction?
Yes. Sandalwood oil is one of the essential oils that commonly causes contact allergy. In a large German patch-test database, about 1.5% of patients tested reacted to it. Dilute it and patch test before using it on your skin.

Is sandalwood oil safe to eat?
East Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) is listed by the FDA as a natural flavoring substance permitted in food in small amounts. That does not make it safe to swallow essential oil directly; keep essential oils away from children.

The Bottom Line

Sandalwood oil has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity in the lab and early clinical results for acne, eczema and psoriasis, but most of those studies were small, uncontrolled or linked to the company developing it. Hair growth research used a synthetic odorant in lab-grown follicles, sleep effects have only been seen in rats, and anxiety benefits come from a blend with lavender. Sandalwood oil is also a recognized contact allergen. If you use it, dilute it, patch test first, and do not rely on it to treat a skin, sleep or hair condition.


This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider before using essential oils, especially if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, have sensitive skin or are managing a health condition.


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References

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